Lagos Cement Queue
m.v.""Dominic” May... 1975 to November 1975...Lagos to Amsterdam
The "Dominic" had started life as the Danish "Jonna Dan" bought by the Vestey's in 1964 and transferred to Booth Line in 1967...she was lengthened in Belgium, and used by Booths to carry timber from the Amazon to UK. I had sailed on her before on a coastal voyage from Cork via Le Harve, Rotterdam and Liverpool relieving Captain Sharp over the New Year. So I was on a Nigerian Airlines flight from London to Lagos...I had met up with the new Radio Officer in Heath Row Airport....it was one of the worst flights I had ever been on....toilets were smelling before we were half way into the flight. Arriving in Lagos where was a big problem as the Company (BSSM) had not given us the required vaccination, so we had to have various vaccinations before we were allowed to enter the country. Eventually we cleared Customs and Immigration and arrived down on the Apapa docks. The ships lifeboat was there to take us out to the ship.......which was approximately about a 10 miles journey, roughly 2 hours in the lifeboat. Arrived onboard John Atkins just shook hands explained were everything was, then left in the lifeboat to catch his flight home.
The ship had been in Alexandria and them to load cement in Turkey which was the present cargo we had onboard. The cement queue in Lagos had been going on for a few years and the total number of ships waiting at the time I was there was about 360 vessels, some ships were anchored about 10/15 miles off and on the radar you could see all the ships like a semi circle around the port entrance. Settling down to life onboard I soon became to realize what I was up against...we were anchored about a mile and a half off the and the only contact with the shore was by lifeboat...phone calls through the local Nigerian Radio station were none existent as they never answered any calls even emergencies. Daylight always brought a flood of boats of all nationalities proceeding shoreward’s; many broke down and were washed up on the beach. The ships motor lifeboat was stowed on the afterdeck so that it could be launched by derricks as this was much quicker than the slower davit winches, the swell in Apapa roads rose up and down about 25 feet, which meant launching the boat very hazardous as both lifting hooks had to be released at the same time to avoid the boat being tipped up. The ship had ac***ulated a skirt of about fifteen feet of weed which used to go up and down on the swell like a skirt, which when we eventually got under way slowed the ship down a lot.
First trip I made ashore to Apapa Wharfs was with the Third Mate, Catering Officer Mr Howells, Second Engineer Sion, Fourth Engineer and a sailor...the whole landing steps was crammed with lifeboats of all Nations, some of the fibre glass boats had suffered damage....we made the trip in fine, then we walked up to the office where the charterers agents did their business...from some reason we did not have our own agents who would look after our interests which is usually the norm. The office was crammed with Masters of other ships all waiting to see the manager, which took a couple of hours, after seeing the manager he signed a chit so you could draw money, then another wait for the cashier to advance your money. After that we had to hire a taxi who had permission to enter the docks and then proceed to the local supermarket to purchase provisions, we had about four trolleys going round collecting items..After we had paid and loaded to our provisions in the cab, we went next door to the open air local fruit market to complete our list. Back down at the docks the sailor and the fourth engineer had been looking after our boat all day in the heat, welcomed us back and once our provisions were loaded and the taxi paid off we headed back to the ship arriving back onboard just before darkness set in. That was a normal trip ashore except for when there was any mail...the procedure was for the secretary to come into the waiting room with the mail bag and tip it out on the floor were all the Captains had to rummage through for his own crews mail. Third mate was due his leave and we had to take him ashore to catch his plane home...company management did not see fit to send out a replacement, so we were short handed......It was not the first time I had been left shorthanded and think the Company thought we were on some sort of holiday off Lagos. I soon realized that the Mate was not fit to handle the lifeboat neither was the Polish second mate, my thanks will always go to the Second Engineer Sion from Blackpool and the Scots fourth engineer who throughout our stay in Lagos were always with me when I went out in the lifeboat and never once let me down. Weeks went into months and on one trip ashore by the time we cleared the breakwater on the way back the wind had risen and we getting covered in spray as the waves were quite high, we eventually got back safe but the Catering Officer refused to come ashore again and used to give us a list of what he wanted. I realized that something had to be done about the provision situation...and it was decided we would slip away in the night and proceed to a port called Cotonou about 70 miles to the West, to stock up on all the items we were short of. Trouble was we did not want to lose our turn on the docking list so we had to do it without saying that we were leaving. We radio our provisions list the appointed agents weighed anchor and proceeded on our way, anchored off Cotonou and loaded our stores, only problem was the Catering Officer had ordered in lbs and they brought the same amount in kilos, so we had double what we wanted. Back again at Logos I had to manoeuvre between other ship to find a anchorage close to the breakwater....eventually anchored amid complaints that we were too close to some other ships...still we were back.
During our time at anchor we had been unable to make RT with the UK, as our radio equipment was not up to scratch, calling the local Nigeria Station also led to silence. As we were short handed I usually kept the 8/12, listening in on the distress frequency channel 16 at night was chaotic, with idiotic massages passing between ships. I seem to remember one ship in particular called "Penguino", came in for a lot chatter. It was during this time that I struck up a friendship with British SD14 which had just arrived and anchored not far away.....we were cordially invited on a Sunday afternoon to watch a film, as we had no such forms of entertainment onboard. So the following afternoon being calm all those off watch were taken across in our boat to watch a film and I managed to make phone calls home to my wife and the company. I week later the British SD14 had a new Radio Operator and they asked could we put their present Sparks up for week as there had been a delay in booking his flight..No problems and he was duly transferred onboard....and the SD14 sailed away.
Our only form of entertainment was the local Lagos TV station....I still remember the slogan for the local washing detergent "Elephant Power". Each evening we were treated to the local soap "The Village Schoolmaster"......followed by a quiz programme where to star prize would either be a Thermos Flask or a Torch.
Eventually it was time to take the Radio Operator ashore to catch his flight, we had an early start usual team myself, 2nd Engineer, 3rd Engineer and a sailor off we go heading for the breakwater in the morning mist. We got about half way up the creek and we were passed by outward bound boats making firing gestures with their arms, still we arrived alongside at Apapa wharf and dropped Sparky off, agent was there to meet him. Off we set back to the ship arriving in good time and it was only then listening to the local radio that there had been a military coup and Marshall Law had been enforced. A couple of nights later a Swedish ship that was alongside Apapa Wharf called us to say that our Radio Operator had taken refuge onboard their ship and could we please come and pick him up. Next morning off again to pick Sparky up...and on our return we were told the full story. Everything had gone fine the agent put him on a taxi to the airport...but the Military Police turned the taxi back as it was closed and the taxi driver just dumped him back at Apapa Wharf...crew on a Swedish ship kindly took him onboard, fed and watered him till we rode to the rescue. There were a lot of regular Freighters going in and out of Logos and Apapa and we used to pass a lot tied up alongside, and one thing we had to look out for was the "thunder boxes" on the sterns of most ships, for the use of the stevedores toilet needs. So weeks passed into months still we were no further up the list of ships to dock and discharge our cargo of cement. Piracy was a big problem for ships with valuable cargoes, as the high speed canoes use to pass backwards and forwards in the night boarding unsuspecting ships and robbing containers. I think it was a week later the SD14 arrived back and Sparky was duly transferred back again. On one occasion we had to go into the outer harbour to take on fresh water as we were running out...then back out to anchor.
So about once or twice a week we made shore trips to post and receive mail and to buy fresh vegetables from the market. The West Indian crew’s articles were coming to an end and even though the Company offered them extra money to stay on they insisted that they leave the ship. So the problem was to get the whole crew ashore into a hotel and then pick the new crew up and bring them onboard. So I went ashore and arranged with our agents for a tender to come out on the afternoon before the flight and take the whole crew ashore to hotel accommodation for the night. On the designated afternoon the tender arrived but could take only five crew members, so I sent Sion ahead with the first party. Nothing else to do now but get the lifeboat ready for the morning with all the crews luggage stowed.....we were all up at four getting the boat ready I wanted to stay on the ship myself in case of emergencies, so I reluctantly sent the Second Mate in charge of the lifeboat with the 4th Engineer to keep an eye on him. The morning was foggy with a slight drizzle as we lowered to boat and the first thing the second mate managed to do was let the tiller fall overboard, this had to be replaced by one from the other boat...and off they went into the mist heading shore wards leaving myself, mate, chief engineer, third engineer, catering officer and Sparky as the only people on the ship. Daylight broke and there were no signs of the lifeboat on the beach so it looked as if they had made it through the breakwater safely. At about three in the afternoon our lifeboat arrived back safely so that was one problem solved. Next day at about 1400hrs a fast dugout canoe was approaching with Sion waving from the bow with the first replacement crew, followed later by the rest of the crew on a tender....what a relief.
One thing I forgot the mention was that our elderly Chief Engineer suffered from angina, I had tried in vain to get him ashore to a doctor but he refused....also tried to advise to cut down on drinking and to take it easy, as Sion could run things for him. On our homeward trip I managed to get him ashore to the doctors in Takoradi, who wanted him to fly home to which he refused..Anyway I had him sign the Official Log to effect he was staying onboard on his own request. On his new medication he was fine all the way to Las Palmas.....and on arrival I went up to the agents on ships business, only to return to find that he had been rushed ashore to hospital....he had only started drinking again with the Superintendents who had arrived onboard from the UK..I rest my case.
So we were back again to the old routine only one night we were late leaving the office and had to come back in darkness, at first we passed ships we knew then we passed ships we did not recognise...eventually we spotted the "Dominic" way over to the East and arrived safely onboard again. On one visit to the office I had problem with getting money and had to go to see the Managing Director...what ship he says..Oh we need you to load timber in Sapelle. So the next day saw us coming alongside Lagos Wharf to start discharge what a relief. Nearly all our Safety Certificates needed renewing and I was having terrible trouble with the authorities to get them sorted. To cut a long story short I went to the British Consuls for help and got the usual story...I did not lose my temper but I told the guy quite straight that if he did not sort it out for me them I had had enough and needed to be repatriated home on health grounds....I got my surveys completed.
I did not forget our friends on the SD14 as the next weekend I invited all those that could be spared to come in and spend a few nights at the Hotel Dominic, as we had plenty of spare passenger accommodation...this was greatly appreciated.
We finally left Logos and just before we sailed the secretary from the office who I knew well by now, came in the middle of the night with the clearance as we were sailing early. I gave her a bottle of whisky and an addressed envelope so that she could send any mail that arrived after we left. She kept her word on arrival Amsterdam my envelope with our mail arrived safely.
We proceeded East to Sapelle, and on arrival off the Benin River delta about a dozen canoes approached all flying different company house flags....we had the pilot ladder over the side and the first canoe arrived and this guy climbed the ladder and presented himself on the bridge with a book of commendations from previous captains..Looked ok, so I said yes. Then his crew proceeded to tell all the other canoes to clear off. Next process was to load the canoe on the fore deck and proceed inwards.....one stop was made at the entrance and again the canoe was lowered back in the water to pick up the pilot and crews wife's and family for the trip to Sapelle. At Sapelle we started loading logs for Holland, pilot and his family slept on the wheelhouse floor during our stay. Some of the logs we loaded had been in the water a long time and were well over the weight on the manifest... so in some cases we had to double up the gear. Soon we finished at Sapelle and were on our way to Takoradi to load further timber cargo...it was during this time that the 2nd Mate managed to over wind the chronometer and break the spring... 2nd Mate went to see the doctor ashore and was flown home on medical grounds: so it was just the Mate and myself left ....I advised the company that I was willing to proceed without a chronometer as my Seiko watch kept good time and I would be able to use that the take sights when needed. After Takoradi we were supposed to load in Monrovia but our stability was not too good as we had very little fuel in our double bottoms and a lot of free surface area...so we proceeded on our way to Las Palmas for fuel, progress was very slow due to our weed skirt making about 6 knots. During this passage the entablature on the main engine cracked, adding to our problems. Ship arrive Las Palmas with no further problems and we had all our medical problems sorted out and the engine repairs carried out...also a new third mate arrived. Metalock did a good job on the repairs to our main engines and we were on our way again....progress up the channel was painful against the tides, but we arrived at Imjgem and proceed to Amsterdam were I was at last relived and proceeded home on leave.
During our stay at Logos most of us had been ill and the local doctor had put it down to malaria...we had all been taking the paludrine anti malaria tablets. So on arrival home I was hospitalized on taking ill and it was months before I was well again...thought I should get this down as a reminder to people, what it was like to be there
