Does any of the model makers on the site know where to purchase model ship cases: I have built a number of kits and would like to preserve them from dust etc. The other alternative are instructions on how to make a case.
hi,if you contact me via email i can point you in the way of a site where you can find a number of outlets.it all depends on what you want to pay and also what you want them making out of.or I can give you some drawings of 3 that i am making at the moment for a variety of models that i am finishing.if you have access to workshop machinery ( a good friend) it's a lot cheeper than paying for them to be built.cheers,neil.
I make my cases from perspex,the stuff you get in 8x4ft sheets for shower doors/panels,available at you're local DY outlet at avery reasonable price.It can be cut quite easy with a jigsaw and holds together with eather superglue or the clear sealer (the rubber variety)used for making fishtanks,sealing windows etc.
Hope this helps.
hi peter i have bought old fish tanks turn them upside down get a nice piece of wood paint it or stain it or you can even cover it in blue felt that you cover pool tables with.thats the cheapest quickest and very good results even if you have to replace a piece of glass.hope this helps
I have built many museum-quality model ships, mostly around 4 ft. long (1/100 scale.) I get the perspex cases made by the local plastics factory - they fold the top corners round, then fit the ends, leaving an open bottom. This method avoids the (ugly?) wooden corner pieces which hide the joins of the conventional glass cases, the effect is very nice indeed.
I then put the case onto a sheet of plywood and draw round the bottom.
This ply bottom is then cut out.
Go to your local picture frame shop and purchase some suitable picture framing material.
You now need a circular saw: - cut the groove in the framing of a size to accept the ply base, then join the sides and ends of the picture frame, to accept the ply base. Glue up the frame, then tack on the ply base.
Finally, cover the ply base in the material of choice.
I also usually have a 1" deep by 4" wide tongue left in the middle of each of the perspex end panels, these fit through slots in the base, and can be secured below by screws, so the perspex case is not removeable or knocked off accidentally. In fact, I can lift my models by gripping the case, as the case is so well secured and light. If access is required to the model, it is a simple matter of removing the screws from below.
Finally, any scratches can be removed by rubbing with Brasso.
I have been building models in display cases for a number of years now (click on Miniature Merchant Ships below for examples, or see FRAMLINGTON COURT case above) & although I do not enjoy the task of putting wooden edges to the display case corners, I find that that is what the people who buy my models want, as wood veneer adds a "touch of class" (their words not mine). I abandoned glass long ago because it was subject to breaking in transit. Also, I find perspex rather unsatisfactory, so use high quality 3mm acrylic sheet which is opticaly clearer than glass. It would be interesting to find out what Marlinspike has decided upon after all this advice.
I must say, shipbuilder that the case you show is the most professional case I have seen and really looks very well. could you please send me a diagram by pm as to how you put them together, and what you use for constructing them. there must be an easier and more cost efective way of doing them other than the way |I do with solid mahogany frames, rebated and beaded. it is also very time consuming. thanks,neil.
Thanks for comments Neil. The cost of building a case like this is little more than the cost of the acrylic. I have replied with PM giving details of building of these cases. It takes about four hours altogether, but the cases are usually quite small. Same techniques can be used to build bigger cases.